Highlands Crossing
ExpeditionSummer-only F-roads697 km via F208 + F35

Highlands Crossing

The interior. Rhyolite mountains, river crossings, geothermal hot pools, and the only roads in Iceland that are explicitly seasonal. Open mid-July to mid-September, closed everything else.

Distance697 km
Drive time10 – 14 h
Ideal days4 – 5
Best seasonMid-Jul – Sep
DifficultyExpert
Vehicle4WD high-clearance
Overview

What this route actually is.

The Highlands aren't a route. They're a system of seasonal F-roads through Iceland's volcanic interior — a different country from the coast, accessible only when the snow has melted and the rivers are low.

F-roads open between mid-June and early July depending on snowpack, and close again as early as September 10 on the harder routes. The interior has no fuel, no cellphone coverage in long stretches, and no insurance coverage on most rental contracts. You'll cross unbridged rivers (F208, F249, F910), drive 50 km of washboard gravel between meaningful stops, and find some of the most otherworldly landscape on Earth — Landmannalaugar's rhyolite peaks, Þórsmörk's birch valley, Askja's caldera. This is Iceland's most serious driving and its most singular reward.

Driving on this plan697 km · about 15 h on F-roads
Ideal travelerExperienced 4WD drivers · returning visitors
First-time IcelandNo — Ring Road or South Coast first
Winter viabilityClosed · F-roads not maintained
Campervan friendlyLimited · 4WD camper or tent only
Driving realismRiver crossings · no recovery if stuck
Trace

The interior crossing.

F35 north–south or F26 east of the central glaciers.

4 days · 697 km driven · summer only
Itinerary

Nine days, sequenced.

Day 1215 km5h

Reykjavík Landmannalaugar

South via Hella, then F26 north to the F208 junction and into Landmannalaugar. Last fuel at Hrauneyjar. River crossing on F208 south is the unknown — check depth at Hrauneyjar.

Stops along the way
  • Hjálparfoss
  • Háifoss
  • Hrauneyjar (last fuel + check)
  • F208 entry · river checkpoint
Overnight
Landmannalaugar mountain hut or tent
Plan a buffer day if shoulder-season weather sets in.
Anchors

The stops that define the loop.

Landmannalaugar
Mid-Jul – early SepModerate (hikes) · expert (access road)

Landmannalaugar

Rhyolite mountains in pink, orange, green and grey. A hot river you can soak in at the end of every hike.

RealityF208 south crossings can be impassable after rain. The northern approach (F208N) is usually the safer entry.
PhotographyBrennisteinsalda peak from the south path · early morning
ConditionsRivers, cold nights, geothermal steam
Askja caldera
Late Jul – early SepExpert · super-jeep access via F88 or F910

Askja caldera

Remote volcanic caldera with a milk-blue crater lake. The most isolated stop in this trip.

RealityF910 has multiple unbridged rivers including Jökulsá á Fjöllum (deep, fast). Most rental insurance excludes water damage on F-roads.
PhotographyCrater lake (Víti) viewpoint · midday for colour
ConditionsVolcanic dust, cold winds, no shelter
Kerlingarfjöll
Jul – mid SepModerate · 4WD F-road access only

Kerlingarfjöll

Rhyolite hot-spring valley off F347 / F35 corridor. Steaming earth, ridge hikes, dramatic colour.

RealityMountain resort has rooms and a restaurant. The Hveradalir geothermal valley is the must-walk — 2h loop.
PhotographyHveradalir steam vents at golden hour
ConditionsCool · stable · sheltered by ridges
Reality check

What guidebooks don't say.

Honest, not fear-based. Iceland rewards travelers who plan for what actually happens.

Rental insurance excludes F-roads + water

Most contracts void coverage on F-roads entirely, and water damage is excluded separately even on 'F-road allowed' vehicles. Read your contract before you commit.

F-road opening dates are estimates

F26 typically Jun 20–Sep 10. F910 mid-Jul–Sep 10. The dates shift by 2 weeks year-to-year depending on snowpack. Check vegagerdin.is days before, road.is on the morning.

River crossings are the real test

Wade across before you drive. Cross at the widest, shallowest point. Diagonal angle, low gear, steady throttle. Never cross if you can't see the bottom.

Last fuel is at Hrauneyjar (south) or Skagafjörður (north)

Carry an extra 5–10 L jerry can. There's no fuel in the interior. Even at Hveravellir.

Weather can close roads overnight

September storms have buried F-roads in a single night before the official closing date. Always have a coastal exit plan.

Cellphone coverage drops in the interior

Have a GPS device that doesn't depend on data. Tell someone your route and ETA. 112 Iceland app for emergencies works offline.

Variations

How it reads each season.

Peak · Jul–Aug
Jul–Aug

Peak

AccessAll F-roads open · river-dependent
Daylight20+ h midnight sun
WeatherCool · 5–12°C interior
CrowdsLow (relative to coast)

The only realistic window. Mountain huts book months ahead.

Edge · late-Jun / early-Sep
late-Jun / early-Sep

Edge

AccessSome F-roads · check daily
Daylight12 – 18 h
WeatherSnow possible at altitude
CrowdsVery low

F35 Kjölur opens earliest (~Jun 1). F910 closes earliest (~Sep 10).

Closed · Oct–May
Oct–May

Closed

AccessF-roads closed · interior inaccessible
Daylight0 – 5 h
WeatherSevere · snow-blocked
CrowdsOff-season

Snowmobile and super-jeep tours from the perimeter only — not self-drive.

Lenses

Read the route differently.

Highland hiking
Landmannalaugar circuit · Laugavegur trail · Kerlingarfjöll
Geothermal
Hot rivers, fumaroles, mud pots at every stop
Photography
Rhyolite palettes unmatched anywhere on Earth
Solitude
Iceland's emptiest landscapes · zero settlement
Midnight sun
Hiking at 1am in soft golden light
River crossings
F208, F249, F910 · skill required
Conditions

What the road is doing right now.

Weather
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Wind
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Daylight
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Aurora
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Reading conditions… · Aurora: NOAA SWPC
Budget

What this loop costs, honestly.

Fuel
€220 – €320
Interior loop · plus jerry can
Vehicle (4WD)
€180 – €350 / day
Super-Jeep €400+ for F249/F910
Accommodation
€80 – €180 / night
Mountain huts · book months ahead
Camping
€15 – €25 / night
Landmannalaugar, Hveravellir, Kerlingarfjöll
Food
€55 – €75 / day
Self-cater · no shops in interior
Insurance upgrade
+€40 – €100 / day
Gravel + sand protection · ask for written confirm